A collection of travel and adventure stories

Kalalau Trail Hiking 1999 - Part I

Description and Directions >>

Description:
The Kalalau Trail is an arduous 11-mile trail winding through the Na Pali Coast of Kauai. The trail provides the only land access to this part of the rugged coast. Hikers cross into 5 valleys before ending at Kalalau Beach. Kalalau Beach offers beautiful views of mountain cliffs, blue ocean water and a refreshing waterfall. A trail provides access to Kalalau Valley with tropical fruit trees and cool water streams. The Kalalau trail will take a full day to hike for most hikers. Day-use hiking permits are required when continuing beyond Hanakapi'ai Valley (about 2 miles in). Camping permits are required to stay at Kalalau Beach. Permits can be obtained from the State Parks office in Lihue. See http://www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/NaPali/na_pali_permits.htm for more information.

Activities:
hiking, camping, picnicking, sightseeing

Directions:
The trail begins in Ha'ena State Park (near Ke'e Beach) at the northwest end of Kuhio Highway (Route 56) about 41 miles from Lihu'e Airport.

Story Date 5/24/1999
Publish Date 1/19/2005

Story Perspectives >>

According to Pilipo: DAY 1
May 24, 1999...the beginning of a beautiful 11 mile journey along the rugged Na Pali Coast to Kalalau Beach and Valley. Other than state helicopter or ocean kayak, this is the only way to get there. The plan was to take 2 days in, 3 days camping and 1 day out. With California and Washington represented, we set out with packs weighing 50-60 lbs each. Sheeaaaaahhh! As if!

If we knew then what we know now, we wouldn't have been smiling; or we would still have been smiling and our packs would have been about 30 lbs lighter. :) The Kalalau Beach and Valley do not give up their secrets very easily and the first of many tests started when we left Ke'e Beach.

There's always a stiff breeze at the top of the first climb. On the way back, you'll appreciate it much more, especially if you do the entire 11 miles in one day! After an initial climb of what seemed like 800 feet in 3/4 of a mile, it's time for a long descent to Hanakapiai Beach, 2 miles in. On the way back, however, this first glimpse of Ke'e Beach is like finding the end of the rainbow. The thoughts of ice cold beer swim around your mind. At one point on the way back, I thought I saw a shimmering Budweiser bottle in the sky above Ke'e. It seemed to be grail shaped.

Hanakapiai Beach is the big tourist destination. The two mile hike is fairly crowded. I saw many elderly people taking their time, enjoying the views. Even a few local boogie boarders hike this part of the trail barefoot with only their boards.

At the beach, we pumped some water from the stream and took our boots off for a few minutes in the shade. It was about 80 degrees and very humid. Our water purifiers were our best friends! Power Bars, although they started out good (before we started hiking), eventually became our nightmare. We brought WAY too many and they weighed WAY too much! I ended up giving them away at Kalalau to some grateful campers.

The trail climbing out of Hanakapiai is another gut-buster, that is, if you try to take the shortcut. My recommendation: Don't. About this time, I'm starting to think "I can probably get back before dark if I turn around now!" The trail itself is very rough with many protruding rocks and big boulders you need to go up and/or down. There are also many roots that can easily trip you if you're not careful.

The trail is basically in, out, down and up valleys and ridges the entire way. At the center of the valleys are usually nice cool streams where you can pump more drinking water to continue your journey. Most of these stops were fantastic because they were in the shade, and the water was COLD. There were enough streams to make you carry only about 1.5 liters max without running out. In the heat of summer, you might want to carry more. Better too much than not enough! This was also a semi-draught year on the Na Pali.

I overheated on the trail about mile four, two miles after taking the "shortcut" out of Hanakapiai. It was not a pleasant experience. I was dizzy and had to sit down and drink water. I would have loved to sit in the shade, but where I was there was none. I was there for about 15 minutes. I sacrificed some water for a small towel I put over my head. I felt like I needed to rush even though I was in the middle of the group and the current rear guard hadn't caught up to me yet. As I found out on the way back, it's good to stop in the right places (read: before the big hills) for 15-25 minutes. The trip is a little longer, but with this weight, it really helps.

LOOKING FOR HANAKOA
Hanakoa Shack (and campsites) are about 6 miles in. This is where we camped for the night. Between Hanakapiai and Hanakoa are four miles of breathtaking views, rugged ridges and lush valleys. Oh yeah, and a hell of a trail as well.

Once we arrived, we found Hanakoa a fantastic place. Nice stream pools to cool off and wash, nicely maintained porta-potties and a few good campsites on both sides of the river. We made camp and dinner, and it took about 2 hours to feel anywhere near normal again.

The wildlife and other sounds were amazing. When the wind came up, you realized just how quiet it had been before the tops of the trees started blowing their tune. The mosquito population at Hanakoa was amazing too. This was the only place on the entire trail that we really needed insect repellent. They were very thick and nasty without it.

We found out on the way back that Hanakoa Valley was once known for the warriors that lived there. Maybe this explains the large branch falling out of the trees onto us while cooking our dinner, and the fact that at least two of us were, for some strange reason, very afraid for a while in our tents that evening. Remember those sounds I was talking about? We still haven't positively identified the ones that were moving right outside the tents all night.

We were only afraid for a little while, ok? Earlier in the evening, I thought I had seen a Hawaiian Bobcat, thought to be long extinct. Fatigue and flashlights can do strange things to your vision. :)

DAY 2 - THE PUSH TO KALALAU
The last half of the trail is very rugged. When we looked at the topographic map the night before at Hanakoa, we all felt better because it looked much easier than the first day. That's what we wanted to think. Now I know that's what we needed to think.

The switchbacks, to me, were worse on the way back, but on the way down one of our group tripped and barely stopped herself from going over the edge. Her legs were under her and she couldn't get up by herself and had headphones on that she couldn't get off because her hands were keeping her balanced on the edge. Not fun. We got to her in time, but you realize at times like this that this is the real world, and not a practice trail on the North Fork outside Auburn, CA.

Having passed the exhaustion issue the day before, I was challenged by the fear issue this day. At one point, you're walking on a trail that's 18 inches wide, with a rock wall on your left and surf pounded, jagged rocks 600 feet below on your right. On top of that, add the billy goats above on the cliffs looking for the right rock to kick down. Bowling for Hikers! Speaking of the wall, it's a good idea not to have a sleeping pad hanging out too far from the sides of your pack. They tend to hit rocks and push you the other way (a bad thing.)

There's also a ridge about 300 feet up that consists of landslid dirt for about 40 feet. It's obvious that any slip is certain doom, but the Park Service has installed a cable about 3 feet high on the lower side. It adds a certain amount of comfort. The problem is, the cable is just out of reach. If you are touching it, it means something undesirable has happened and you REALLY have to use it! If the trail is dry, as it was for us, it isn't that bad, but I definitely wouldn't try it in the rain. It's a simple matter of friction where my boot hits the dirt.

There's one important landmark you won't see in this report, that is Red Hill. There's a very good reason why there are no close-up pictures of it. You see, I simply did not have the energy to reach up, unzip the top of my pack and remove the camera. I'll try to sum it up for you: 400 feet down in 1/4 mile on a slippery fine red dirt. Your toes tend to get very acquainted with the front of your boots, and your legs feel like jelly. The good news is that Red Hill dumps you to sea level 1/2 mile from Kalalau Beach. It's a nice cooldown in the ocean breeze. It's also nice to know that camp is just across the river.

STORY CONTINUED IN PART II...